Cinciano Preziano, IGT Toscana, 2024

Yes - you read that correctly, their white wine, Preziano, which qualifies as an IGT Toscana and comes from the estate's lowest-lying, southwest facing vineyards. These are at just 200 metres above sea level and therefore slightly too low to craft age worthy Sangiovese. The soils, though, are textbook Alberese (Sangiovese-favouring limestone formed from marine sediments). After a manual harvest, grapes are destemmed and soft pressed, with the must drained immediately to avoid picking up any colouring anthocyanins. The slow fermentation at low temperatures (16°C to 18°C) for twenty days preserves a gorgeous range of aromatics that are routinely lost during red wines' warmer ferments. Four months' ageing in stainless steel follows, with a further two months of bottle maturation prior to release. Annual production sits at just 3,500 bottles. Preziano is an exercise in appreciation without prejudice, offering the texture and length one might expect from Sangiovese but without the tannins (nor evidently the hue), wrapped up in an altogether novel flurry of citrus bursts, camomile tea, and blossom flavours. This might have started as a bit of fun according to Biagini but is now a permanent fixture of genuine merit. Find yourself in the Cinciano wine bar with a glass and you can while away more than a few verses worth of Hotel California. This place is as close to paradise and one is likely to find. Unexpectedly ebullient nose of camomile, acacia, and lemon pith. The palate is long and textured, with flavours of pink grapefruit, florals, and a crunchy acidity. Wonderful balance and fruit purity with plenty to shout about on the finish. Brilliant stuff.2025-2027–MP