Moillard-Grivot Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, AOC Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, 2017

At 50 hectares, Clos de Vougeot is the Côte-d'Or’s largest Grand Cru vineyard and comprises more than 80 individual growers. Quality, therefore, is even more variable here than elsewhere in Burgundy, and one needs to pick and choose with great care to find examples that genuinely deliver on the Grand Cru promise. With a beguiling bouquet offering complex aromas of forest floor, truffle, cooked plum, tinned strawberry, raspberry compote, blackberry and bramble, this showstopper from Moillard-Grivot demands your attention from the first glass. In the mouth the ample fruit is chased by vast swathes of coffee, vanilla, sweet spice and tobacco supported by the silkiest of tannins and a gorgeous streak of refreshing acidity. This is textbook Grand Cru burgundy and proof that, just sometimes, the hype is justified. 2024-2029 – MP