Monleale, DOC Colli Tortonesi, Vigneti Massa, 2016

Monleale refers to the hamlet which houses Walter, his Mom, his sister and, in the basement, the ramshackle collection of tanks from which emerge some of Piemonte’s most beguiling wines. Like Walter, the 100% Barbera Monleale is initially unassuming but the combination of old vines, 24 months in oak and another three years in bottle eventually spills out of the glass with powerful notes of bramble, dark plum, cocoa, vanilla, liquorice, Bovril and forest floor. This is Barbera at its most glorious – full-bodied, alcoholic and with the requisite acidity to keep everything in focus. –mp