Savigny-lès-Beaune Lavières 1er Cru, AOC-1996-C328

Pale garnet hue. Fully mature nose of red currant, red berries, plum, cherry and stewed rhubarb, plus spicy notes of cinnamon, star anise, and cedar. I adore this – imperfect though it may be. The tannins are dusty and rough, there is masses of acidity, but also a core of bright red fruit with notes of strawberry, raspberry, rhubarb, cranberry, and spice, including Chinese five spice, liquorice and clove. The finish is superb and, although this has reached its zenith, it's full-on interest from me. 2026-2028 – MP