Te MATA Estate Coleraine, Hawke's Bay, 2022

Deep ruby hue. Complex despite its infancy, this makes a downright hedonistic entrance, oozing masses of blackcurrant, cassis, and black cherry on the nose. Supporting notes include vanilla, liquorice, cocoa powder, and mint. The palate confirms all the nose foretold: this is a staggering effort and is right up there with the world's greatest Bordeaux blends. There is exquisite balance between fine-grained tannins and the taut, dynamic acidity. Fruit notes are focused and plentiful – eucalyptus, blackcurrant, black plum, ink, pencil shavings, cassis, and wood smoke. For all the power, this finishes sublimely graceful, lingering like the afterglow of a mid-summer sunset. 2030–2040–MP