The French have a word for collectors of Champagne capsule tops: placomusophile, and that makes me wonder if Italians have a similar word for those who seek out wines made from obscure grape varieties. Perhaps the more unusual ones command a premium on the late-night swaps circuit? If that were true, I suspect I would immediately shoot to the top of the nerd's gallery. Nothing is quite as fascinating for the bored as uncovering the rare and exceptional in the Italian canon of native grape varieties. On that note, I give you Turbiana.
Turbiana is the Lugana grape, a DOC which backs onto Lake Garda's southern shore and is bounded to the north by its azure beauty. Where does Turbiana fit into the wine map? It is closely related to Trebbiano di Soave and a direct descendent of Verdicchio, unquestionably one of the peninsula's finest whites. Turbiana grows exclusively in the Lugana area but Turbiana doesn't appear on the label, Lugana does. This is because Italian convention dictates that terroir is more important than grape variety. The name 'Lugana' refers to a specific hamlet near Sirmione, the jagged peninsula awash in Roman temples dedicated to Catullo. When originally proposed in 1967, the DOC comprised a small patch of clay soils between the shoreline and the terminal moraine where the gravel, red-only DOC of Bardolino begins. This being Italy, the DOC has subsequently grown to include soils distinctly less clay-ey.
Turbiana needs clay to produce its oily, high-acid, age-worthy signature and its extraordinary aromatics. There is never a stick of oak in sight here as Turbiana offers a panoply of flavours including both citrus and orchard fruit, nutty notes including almond and a beguiling hint of fennel or liquorice all wrapped in saline acidity. It is Chablis in terms of acidity and lemon freshness and Vermentino in terms of weight and structure.
But I digress. C339 offers a chance to try so many more grapes than just Turbiana, so here's a summary of others, all well-worth a short trip off the beaten track:
Grignolino: Piemonte's pale-hued forgotten son. Cursed with an additional pip that used to lead to swingeing tannins, modern Grignolino is bright, highly aromatic, and bursting with notes of rose petal, orange peel and exotic spice. Serve lightly chilled with charcuterie for a wine that upends everything you thought you knew about "light reds."
Freisa: A genetic cousin of Nebbiolo, Freisa shares that grape's tannic backbone but wraps it in wilder, more rustic fruit. You'll find the usual notes of red and black fruit but with an intriguing 'sotto bosco' character. It was traditionally vinified 'vivace' but these days it's a fine red in its own right. Like Grignolino, it rewards the curious.
Piedirosso: So called because of the crimson stalks, this is a Campanian native originally hailing from the highly volcanic Campi Flegrei (literally 'burning fields'). This is as irascible as a grape can be given it's inanimate; the wines are juicy in a red currant way with an herbal edge, notes of cranberry and red cherry, and a swathe of acidity a mile wide. It's often blended with its big brother, Aglianico, to soften its power, and that's saying something given Aglianico's structure.
Nerello Mascalese: Etna's answer to Pinot Noir, pale, perfumed, and remarkably age-worthy, grown on volcanic terraces up to 1,000 metres. Expect red cherry, wild herbs, and a smoky mineral identity. If you love Pinot, you really must try an Etna Rosso. This is a grape increasingly prized by Pinot hunters chasing Burgundian elegance from unexpected places. Sicily's most exciting red for anyone seeking finesse over power.
Carricante: The backbone of Etna Bianco, Carricante thrives on the volcano's mineral-rich soils and high altitudes. Derived from 'carrico tanto' or 'I carry a lot' it tends to high yields and therefore needs a firm hand on the secateurs. On my first visit I was blown away by this grape (then grown by only two wineries) that showed high acidity, citrus and saline notes and an incredible propensity for ageing. 30 years later, I remain as enthralled as ever.
Caprettone: Long mistaken for Coda di Volpe, Caprettone is now recognised as its own variety, grown around Mount Vesuvius and central to Lacryma Christi DOC. This shows a broad swathe of stone fruit and candied peel and is designed for relatively early drinking as most of it rolls down the hill and into the Napoletane trattorie. Caprettone is a little-known grape from a very famous mountain.