In 1863 the railway arrived in Haro, connecting this sleepy regional hub to both the port at Bilbao and the northern line terminus at Irún which links with the network on the French side of the border. In itself, this was something, as it made the export of Rioja practical and, therefore, attractive to investors although the advancement of the louse of doom, phylloxera, in Bordeaux's vineyards added rather more stuffing to the proverbial turkey. Faced with ravaged vines and no return, Bordeaux's négociants were forced to look further afield for liquid at which point Rioja's untapped potential suddenly seemed very appealing. Oenologists and coopers joined investors on the journey south as local job opportunities in Bordeaux dried up: with a Frenchman and a Chilean at the wheel, the first of the new Haro bodegas was established in the late 1870s, and, by the turn of the century, there were seven bodegas trading in the now renowned 'Barrio de la Estación' (The Railway Quarter).
Fast forward to 2026 and all three original businesses are still there, which gives an insight into Rioja's enduring appeal. On its way to becoming one of the world's most easily recognised wines there was an inevitable rocky patch: first, there was the creeping ingress of phylloxera; then, the Great Depression. In the post-war period under the Franco dictatorship there was little support for investment and, compounded by a combination of self-imposed isolation and international scorn, exports flat-lined. In a trend that continues pretty much to the present day the relative weakness of the Spanish economy versus its traditional export markets did little to boost ex-cellar prices. Since the reinstatement of democracy in 1978, Rioja has endured the bugbear of competition from revamped French and Italian regions while grappling with a rigid regulatory framework that downplays the value of terroir. Combine this with declining global wine consumption and managing a vineyard may not be top of every young, local professional's career list.
These issues are not lost on the Consejo Regulador (the governing body of the DOCa) as Rioja remains one of the world's most trusted wine soft brands synonymous with easy-drinking, oak-matured ripe fruit. The Crianza-Reserva-Gran Reserva model, which defines quality levels by oak maturation is very much part of Rioja's heritage. These define minimum ageing as follows:
· Cosecha: if you see this on the back label then no minimum period of ageing is required. Producers are increasingly using this together with the newer classification based on origin (see below).
· Crianza: A minimum two-year ageing process of which at least one year must be in 225 litre oak barrels. For white wines and rosés, the minimum ageing period in barrel is 6 months.
· Reserva: A minimum ageing process of 3 years with at least 1 year in oak. For white and rosés, the ageing process is 2 years with 6 months in barrel.
· Gran Reserva: A minimum ageing process of 5 years with at least 2 years in wood. For white and rosés, the ageing process is 4 years with 6 months in barrel.
· Joven: no oak ageing requirement; wines intended for early drinking.
This easy-to-understand system bakes in prestige and uses heritage to its advantage. Accordingly, it is not going away but has been complemented by strategic changes that put more emphasis on terroir, making artisan projects more appealing. These are:
· The 'Vino de Viñedo Singular' classification. Introduced in 2017, this champions plots with unique characteristics – primarily old vineyards with limited yields that are hand-harvested. There are no requirements for oak ageing.
· The 'Vino de Municipio' classification. Also introduced in 2017, this grants the rights for the municipality of production to appear on the label, of which there are 144. Again, there are no requirements for oak ageing.
It is hoped that, in time, the perceived value of these new designations will increase to the extent that they parallel the Burgundian model. This will not be a quick fix but it does seem to be the direction of travel.
Another important change is the renaming of Rioja Baja to Rioja Oriental – presumably to avoid the connotations of being 'down the ladder' (Baja means 'low' in English) and is used in conjunction with the new 'Vino de Zona' classification. The 'Baja' area had developed a workhorse reputation over the years, which is slightly unfair on the basis that the Ebro's tributaries create varying microclimates across the entire breadth of the region that can be successfully exploited with prudent choice of grape variety. Although 14 grape varieties are permitted, Tempranillo here holds sway owing to its baked red fruit, that has a natural affinity for oak, and its sturdy acidity. Alongside iconic Tempranillo, Garnacha (Grenache) is widely planted and provides sugar rather than structure. It figures largely in younger styles whilst both Graciano and Mazuelo, known for their aroma, colour, and structure are found in more ageworthy variants. The whites look to Viura for its lemony freshness and versatility in the cellar. The bold flavours of these grape varieties demand red meat, including beef, but Rioja is incomparable with lamb, a regional speciality.
Instantly recognisable, ageworthy and complex, there is much to like in Rioja but many examples are trading on past glories. It is essential that the region remains associated with the quality that it undoubtedly produces: very few regions can claim wines that will happily mature for 50 years or more, and fewer still are those that compete with Rioja for value. The paradox is to maintain this value while keeping the standards high and the growers in a job.
Rioja Drinking Windows
· Joven: 1+ years
· Crianza: 3+ years
· Reserva: 5+ years
· Gran Reserva: 8+ years
· Vino de Municipio: 3+ years
· Vino de Viñedo Singular: 5+ years